Advertorial for Etymon
If North Sydney’s food scene was already humming, now it sings. Last month, the new Walker Street precinct opened its doors – four of them, to be precise. There’s LA-inspired diner Soluna; bakery-meets-wine-bar Sol; artisanal grocer Una; and contemporary Japanese restaurant Genzo.
Yes, that’s right. Four hot new venues, each with a distinct feel and flavour. Translation: a whole lot of delicious food to try.
And pulling up a chair at anyone is a safe bet – the culinary neighbourhood is led by executive chef Rhys Connell, former Sepia, The Gantry and Society talent.
So, if you should find yourself at Walker Street (and indeed you should) here’s what to eat.
Sol
Bread and wine. Two of life’s great pleasures become one epic double-act at Sol. The bakery by day and wine bar ’til late is a cosy hangout for early birds and night owls alike.
Mornings are about artisanal breads and Sol’s signature focaccia by the slab. Follow the scent of fresh-baked goods, and you’ll find pastries galore – including two must-try croissants, one baklava-inspired and the other filled with pecan and banana and finished with a maple syrup glaze. There’s also tarts, cookies and a Louise cake that’s nothing short of beautiful. Think: pink plum meringue, roasted plum compote and elegant sponge.
The day dine-in menu is equally irresistible. Choose soft-boiled dippy eggs with fried polenta soldiers and smoked salmon to guarantee yourself a good morning.
Then, at 2pm, the scene (and menu) transforms. Toast the sunset with a low-fi wine and tuck in to share plates. The tender braised Wagyu beef cheek with white onion cream and radicchio is a standout.
“It’s the kind of food you want to mop up with a thick slice of fresh bread,” says head chef Christian Potter. “The seared bonito with shiso dressing and the squid that we gently cook in mustard leaf curry butter are both perfect examples of that.”
Genzo
Fancy a taste of Tokyo? Awash with neon lights and peppered with anime-inspired illustrations by Tokyo artistMasanori Ushiki, the decor at Genzo sets the tone for its food too – refined Japanese with a little edge.
Bar bites or a full dining experience, this diner does both – and very well, at that. It’s little wonder why: the kitchen is helmed by ex-Nobu London chef Tuan Colombo.
To start, the yellowfin tuna onigiri is unmissable, served with stracciatella and umeboshi (Japanese salt plum).
The heart and hero of Genzo’s open kitchen is its robatayaki grill. So don’t look past the kushi-sutikku menu, a line-up of skewers packing the smoky, sizzling oomph only red-hot charcoal can deliver. Black truffle chicken tskune with celeriac and soft yolk really dazzles. Or for something deliciously simple? Chicken skin with pink pepper. Hot, crispy, genius.
Wash your meal down with a crafty cocktail or a flight of sake (from the temperature-controlled sake room, no less) and be sure to top it off with a sweet treat. Our pick is the “Kitto Katto”, a five-layered ode to KitKat with a choc sponge base, sesame feuilletine crunch, chocolate ganache, sesame praline and black sesame mousse – all frozen and set in tempered dark chocolate.
Soluna
LA was Connell’s muse when designing Soluna, with a menu that leans into North Sydney’s coastal credentials.
“It’s relaxed, really fresh, light, clean and evokes that chilling-in-the-sunshine feeling,” says Connell. “The dishes are not overcomplicated, just beautifully cooked ingredients that are delicious and feel kind of good for you.”
Lush greenery and sheer curtains create three distinct spaces: a 60-seater indoor-outdoor bar, a 110-seater dining area with a covered sandstone terrace, and a cosy 30-seater lounge. The space is designed for flexibility, allowing guests to enjoy casual drinks, long lunches, or intimate gatherings in a relaxed yet elevated setting.
Start with the pressed prawn toast and follow with the seared scallops with macadamia purée and plum.
The grilled coral trout is mouth-watering – served with peppers and a chilli garlic crunch (which is so good, they bottle it to sell at Una downstairs).
Of the fresh pastas made in-house, Connell’s favourite is the sourdough spaghetti with roasted garlic miso and black pepper.
Pair it all with a casa Rosado, Soluna’s take on a spicy margarita – featuring smoky mezcal, strawberry and a little heat.
Una
And if a trip to the lower north shore’s new culinary neighbourhood leaves you wanting to take it all home with you – well, you can.
Rounding out the precinct is Una, a providore reminiscent of the gourmet grocers of Italy.
A treasure trove for food lovers, it offers an impressive range of artisanal products, including local and international cheeses, charcuterie, house-made pastas, and boutique wines and spirits.
Each of the Walker Street venues – Sol, Soluna, and Genzo – have an “essential pantry items” range available in Una featuring items like Genzo’s chilli crunch condiment, crackers made from Sol’s leftover bread and jam made fresh at Soluna.
The grocer’s understated design and monochrome palette draw from Italy’s alimentaris, but it also lets the produce take its rightful place in the spotlight. A nod to the ethos that unites all four destinations: good food speaks for itself.
The Walker Street venues are now open: LA-inspired diner Soluna; bakery and wine bar Sol; artisanal grocer Una; and contemporary Japanese restaurant Genzo.
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